Ferret FACTS

Information on Ferrets as Pets

Clip Art Copyright by Linda Gaylord and The Stationery Ferret

Overview

Owner Responsibilities

A ferret-proofed home
Correct diet
Cage
Proper medical care

Care of Ferrets

Diet
Environment
Vaccinations
Medical Problems
Senior Ferrets
Vaccination Schedule

Bringing Home a New Ferret

Bringing Home an Additional Ferret

Other Ferret Links

F.A.C.T (Ferret Awareness Club of the Tri-Cities) is a volunteer ferret shelter in Bristol, Tennessee. F.A.C.T. is registered with the American Ferret Association as a ferret rescue shelter and serves the upper East Tennessee and southwest Virginia area.

The good folks at F.A.C.T. are an excellent source of information about the care of ferrets and often have ferrets in need of adoption in East Tennessee homes. Contact Sandee Cline (sandee.clyne@usa.net) for more information about F.A.C.T.

The material on this page was largely compiled or created by the folks at F.A.C.T., with minor additions by Robert Jackson.

Overview: MUSTELA PUTORIUS FURO ... or, who was that masked bandit? (created by F.A.C.T. for prospective/new as well as veteran ferret owners)

Domesticated ferrets are the 3rd most popular pet in the U.S. It is important to recognize that a ferret is a different pet from a dog or cat, with different behavior and different day-to-day care and different medical needs. Additionally, ferrets are not for everyone.

Vets warn that ferrets should not be pets in homes with infants or small children. It's generally accepted that 12 years age is ideal for primary responsibility (or mature, animal-oriented 10-11 years old). Ferrets shouldn't be selected as pets if one's lifestyle doesn't permit time daily for at least two play periods (i.e., if one is never home and constantly on the go then the ferret's needs will not be met). Older ferrets are prone to serious medical problems, so owners should anticipate and be able to afford vet medical bills.

Ferrets are wonderful pets. They are people-oriented and must be handled frequently or else experience failure-to-thrive. Altered ferrets are indoor pets who must become an integral part of the family. Contrary to rumor, ferrets are not vicious, but rather mean only if provoked, abused, injured, or ill. Actually, ferrets have been domesticated and interacting with humans for over 4000 years; they've lost the skills needed to survive on their own in the wild if accidentally or purposely turned loose. None have survived more than 2-3 days, dying of starvation/dehydration, predators or traffic.

Owner Responsibilities

Owner responsibilities are fourfold: (1) a ferret-proofed home, (2) correct diet, (3) cage, (4) proper medical care

(1) a ferret-proofed home

A ferret is several pounds of curiosity! Any opening into which a ferret can get it's head, it can also get it's body. Therefore an owner needs to "ferret proof" the ferret's play area so that ferret snooping doesn't lead to injury or death. Watch them when they're new to your home to make ensure they don't get into things which will hurt them, such as between the walls or out clothes dryer vents or behind/into appliance with high voltage or into cleaning fluids and other poisons. It's easy to miss things, so always pay attention when they're outside their cage. Look at your house from a ferret's perspective and then ferret-proof using duct tape, cardboard, plywood, etc. to seal-off dangerous areas. Be alert for the duration of a ferret's life because they always are curious and mischievous.

(2) correct diet

Fresh food and water always should be available because ferrets eat frequently and do not overeat. Ferrets historically were mousers, which is why originally they were domesticated and also why their diet should consist of meat protein only. Ferrets should be fed name brand ferret foods and high quality dry cat foods (Iams, Science Diet adult or feline growth). NOTE: Ferrets should never be given dairy products, sugar products, canned cat food, or dog food. The ferret digestive tract will not handle milk, cheese, ice cream, or any sweets and all of these cause severe, life-threatening diarrhea. An occasional small bite of apple, raisin, banana is a treat, but too much of this fiber also is not healthy and causes diarrhea (which is why lesser quality cat foods, which are grain-based, are too fibrous and should not be given to ferrets).

Ferrets drink lots of water, so be sure to keep it freshly available both inside and outside their cage. If a water dish (instead of bottle) is use, it must be the weighed style which can't be turned over. Ferrets delight in turning over dishes, but can't do without water for long. Dishes and bottles need to be washed weekly in warm, soapy water, rinsed well, and dried. Bottles that become cloudy and/or filmed with scum should be tossed-out.

Linatone or Ferratone, liquid vitamin supplements, are good in small quantities of no more than 3-4 drops (not pumps) a day, more causes Vitamin A toxicity with hair loss. Ferravite or Nutrical are enriched vitamin supplements intended for pets recovering from illness and should not be used with healthy , properly fed ferrets. Ferrets have a simple digestive tract with one bacterial organism, which is why their poop doesn't have a particularly bad odor (if it does start stinking or becomes loose or slimy green, that's indication of a GI infection requiring prompt medical attention). It takes approximately three hours to process food from entry to exit; thus, ferrets eat and drink frequently and poop/pee a lot. Ferrets are tidy critters and automatically use a litter box most, but not all the time; they will have accidents around the house, but there is little odor to the urine or poop and it's easy to clean-up (dab-up the urine, but allow the poop to dry and then simply pick-up). A solution of ¾ cup club soda with ¼ cup white vinegar in a spray bottle prevents stains or any odor. A litter pan should be placed in their cage and others strategically around the house, using either newspaper-pellet litter or premium 99% dust-free clay litter. Do not use deodorized, perfumed, or clumping litters and avoid all types of wood shavings, hay, straw, or sawdust (these all cause respiratory problems). Litter pans should be scooped-out daily and washed monthly.

(3) cage

Ferrets require the security of a well ventilated cage or confined area for sleeping and when alone (they should never be allowed to roam freely when no one is home). Wire-floor cages damage their foot pads, so provide solid flooring that can be cleaned such as linoleum, old placemats, quilting, tee shirts. Bedding should not be wood chips of any kind, cedar and pine cause severe respiratory problems. Ferrets like to burrow so use old tee or sweat shirts or any soft cloth for bedding; towels are not recommended because toenails get snagged in toweling. Their sleeping area should be quiet, draft-free, and dry.

(4) proper medical care

A newly purchased ferret must be taken to the vet for canine distemper shots (see attached inoculation schedule) and thereafter have a yearly physical and canine distemper booster. Canine distemper is 100% fatal to ferrets and is an air-borne virus which can be brought into your house on shoes or clothes. Ferrets are prone to both respiratory and gastrointestinal illnesses: they catch human respiratory colds and flu, so if anyone in the household has a cold or virus, they should minimize contact and always wash hands before handling the ferret or it's food, dish, water bottle. Ferrets are so low to the floor that they may ingest debris which can upset their stomachs or cause blockage, so try to keep their play areas vacuumed. Also, prevent a ferret from ingesting food or water which belongs to other household pets, i.e., dog-cat food and water or reptile/ fish aquarium water.

Ferrets live an average of 6-8 years and are considered "senior citizens" after age 3. Elderly ferrets are prone to three serious diseases: adrenal gland disease, insulinoma (tumors of the pancreas), and lymphosarcoma (cancer). Owners must be aware of the symptoms of these and be alert for them to appear because each requires prompt vet care. Remember: ferrets at any age get seriously ill quickly, so if in doubt about your ferrets heath, promptly call your vet … a delay could mean death!

Ferrets do not tolerate temperatures about 80 degrees without briskly circulating air and easily can have heat stroke (they lack the ability to perspire to dissipate body heat). Also they do not tolerate cold temperatures below approximately 68 degrees. Remember this when heating /cooling their areas and when placing their cage (avoid being too near heat/AC sources, drafts, or direct sun). Some ferrets are fearless climbers and take bad spills because they have no depth perception, so be alert to prevent spinal injuries, particularly get cages only with complete second/third flooring (not partial shelves). Some ferrets are rubber/plastic eaters (rubber bands, erasures, latex toys, insoles, foam rubber, tennis shoes, electric cords, etc), so watch to prevent intestinal blockage requiring surgery. Always supervise your ferret outside it's cage and alert people so outside doors aren't carelessly opened, clothes or rugs with "lumps" aren't stepped on, and people don't sit until the ferret is located, particularly with recliner chairs/sofas (each year numerous ferret are killed in the gears of these). Transport ferrets only in a pet carrier .. a ferret loose in the car is unsafe for ferret and human.

Several supervised play periods a day are mandatory; if this can not be provided, one should not own a ferret (the most frequent reason given for adopting-out/re-selling is guilt because no one has time to let out the ferret for play and exercise). Generally 1-2 hours play is followed by prolonged sleep. Newly arrived kits are too excited by their new surroundings to sleep as much as they should, so don't allow them to play to exhaustion (put them down for naps the same as human babies). Ferrets love to be petted, handled, cuddled, and rough-housed. Play with them on the floor at their level, particularly during the initial bonding time. Ferrets nip and bite when playing, particularly kits (as with all babies, everything goes into the mouth). They play very rough with each other, so must be taught what's too rough with humans. A simple "No" or "Ouch" usually teaches them to stop. Discipline should consist only of the word "No/Ouch", or at most a gentle scruff by the neck up to eye-level. Never strike a ferret or thump on the nose or hit with newspaper; these measures are counter-productive and could injure the ferret. Ferrets have problem-solving intelligence and respond to discipline, their name, learn simple tricks, and will bamboozle you if they can! Note that good breeders have handlers specifically hired to touch/play/handle the kits starting at age 3 weeks in order to accustom them to human hands. Kits not exposed to this early handling sometimes will bite from apprehension, but quickly learn with a little patience, gentle discipline, and love that being handled is good. Some ferrets are more high-strung and will be more on the alert and easily frightened when new to you; these ferrets take extra special time and attention to build trust (generally these are females more than males, white and mitts more than sables).

Toys should be made of materials which can not be ingested; if you can cut it with scissors, it's not a safe toy for ferrets. Avoid latex or soft materials which can be chewed up and ingested, particularly if you have a rubber-eater. Ping-Pong balls, hard plastic ribbed balls, and some hard material squeak toys are ideal; be creative with a cardboard box and tubing to make a playhouse. Your ferret should be taught to come to one specific squeak toy noise, for emergencies when your ferret can't be found (practice this and don't let the ferret play with this squeaker … or it will be hidden!). You may wish your ferret to wear a collar with a bell, but the collar needs to be expandable to prevent strangulation; a harness-type would be better if your ferret will tolerate it. You may eventually teach your ferret to walk on a leash and harness, but they don't automatically take to these. Wasp, bee, etc., stings or ant bites can cause allergic reactions needing a vet.

Baths shouldn't be more frequently than every 2-3 weeks in warm weather and 6-8 weeks during winter (after age 3, less is better for older, drier skin). Between baths ferret deodorant-conditioner sprays are good for the coat, skin, and ferret aroma. Ferret shampoo and conditioners is recommended, or any shampoo safe for a kitten (NOT shampoos for dogs, cats, or humans). Fill a sink to a depth not over your ferret's head with warm water (not hot or cold) and gently lower the ferret, keeping your hand under their chest/belly. Soak them good to get wet the undercoat of fur which is thick. Get their head wet by rubbing your wet hand over it; do not lather their face. Shampoo gently and thoroughly, followed by a good rinse under running warm water to get most of the soap off and then again submerge in fresh warm water to further rinse the thick undercoat. Conditioner can be added to the coat now, followed by another good rinse. Towel dry as much as possible before putting down because they'll run like mad for a while; let them run through toweling to dry themselves with the running. Most ferrets simply tolerate baths, but some love them.

Ferrets shed twice a year, spring and fall. They should be brushed and rubbed more frequently during this time and bathed to speed-up the shedding. Hairballs are rare. An owner may notice hair in the poop, but as long as the amount of poop daily doesn't change, then hairball medication is not necessary. If an owner elects to give LaxAire , dose half the recommended dosing for cats.

Your ferret can get fleas during the summer months if outside or is fleas are brought inside by other pets. ADVANTAGE For Cats used in ½ doses is safe for ferrets, using ½ a vial monthly. Ask your vet for other safe ferret flea products, though generally any product safe for a kitten is also safe for a ferret. However, never use flea collars because they are too toxic for a ferret.

Toenails need to be trimmed at least every 2-3 weeks to prevent snagging and damaging the nailbed or toe. Use scissors or clippers designed for animal nails. Take care to clip only the ends and not the pink nerve tissue (if too close a clip causes bleeding, dab the toe with corn starch , baby powder, or styptic). The easiest method to clip nails is to place the ferret in your lap on it's back and put 2 drops of Linatone on it's belly and then while the ferrets is busy licking the Linatone, you can trim the nails; 2 drops usually will get the hind toes done and 2 more drops will get the front toes done.

Ears should be cleaned occasionally. Using a Q-Tip and mineral oil, gently clean the outer visible part only and a reddish colored debris will come out. 2% peroxide also can be used for this job, as well as for cleaning any skin wounds (2% peroxide is store bought diluted 2/3 cup peroxide with 1/3 cup water).

Two or more ferrets in a household is twice or greater the fun, with only a little more responsibility. If one is adding an companion ferret, the only rule-of-thumb is to keep the ferrets within 1-years age of each other; otherwise, the energy levels are too different and this isn't fair to either the younger or older one. Additionally, ferrets with a indoor dog or cat is possible; however, ferrets are not recommended if your indoor dog is of the "hunting" class (genetically predisposed to perceive of ferrets as prey). Always carefully introduce new pets to each other and supervise their time together.

Ferret reproduction is a complicated process best left to professional breeders. The female does not get pregnant easily and tends to have a difficult labor-delivery; it is not uncommon for 50% of the kits to die in the reproductive process. Most important, females must be bred once they come into heat or else die a ghastly death from prolonged exposure to high hormone levels. Qualified, knowledgeable breeders send out kits already spayed or neutered and with the first of three canine distemper shots. Some people may think to save money by purchasing a less expensive unaltered ferret from a local breeder (who may or may not know good breeding), but eventually spend more on expensive operations and medical care. Additionally, some people purchase unaltered ferrets intending to breed, with disastrous results for the ferrets. Research shows there is no profit in "backyard" breeding. F.A.C.T. endorses the purchase only of altered ferrets. We wish to prevent the over-population of ferrets now seen with dogs and cats.

A final word: there are documented attacks by ferrets on small children or infants. Young children are not consistently gentle enough to handle ferrets. Ferrets are less disposed to tolerate rough handling than puppies or kittens. If frightened or handle aggressively or mistreated, they may instinctively inflict injury in defending themselves. Theories abound regarding the attacks on infants, including milk-breath or cartilaginous ears/noses. The number and severity of attacks by ferrets is significantly less than dog attacks over the past 20 years. Regardless, parents should be aware and perhaps select a more age-appropriate pet for younger children. The likelihood of anything happening is remote, but why take the risk!

Ferrets are affectionate, fun, funny, and overwhelming cute! It is all too easy to buy a ferret on impulse and then regret the purchase because they are not the pet you thought they'd be or because they require more care and attention than you anticipated.

Is your family's lifestyle conducive to owning a ferret?
Who will be primary daily caregiver?
Does the whole family agree on the ferret and recognize it will become part of the household?
Who will tend to it for the full course of it's 6-8 year life?

The word "ferret" derives from Latin for "little thief" because they love to steal and hide things (as all owners soon learn) … and indeed, these cute bandits steal our hearts. We, in turn, owe it to them to educate ourselves to provide the best possible home.

CARE OF FERRETS - (derived from vet hand-out)

I. DIET

Food - ferrets are carnivores, meaning they are strict meat-eaters. They utilize only meat proteins, not plant proteins. Commercial brand ferret foods are designed to meet the daily nutritional requirements of ferrets. Additionally, high quality dry cat foods such as Iams or Science Diet (those with meat-based primary ingredients, not grain or rice primarily) also meet ferret dietary needs. Ferrets enjoy a bit of fruit or vegetable, but these items should be fed sparingly because ferrets do not digest fiber well and too much will cause diarrhea. No more than a total of one teaspoon occasionally should be given and avoid fruits or vegetables with seeds.

NEVER FEED YOUR FERRET COMPLEX CARBOHYDRATES OR REFINED SUGARS (candy, cakes, sugar-coated cereals, soda, junk food) because ferrets can not digest sugar. Feeding sugars puts tremendous strain on the pancreas and results in diabetes, which is difficult to treat and ultimately leads to death. NEVER FEED YOUR FERRET DAIRY PRODUCTS (milk, cheese, ice cream) or DOG FOOD or CANNED CAT FOOD. All of these can cause severe, life-threatening diarrhea. Some ferrets are prone to be "junk food" eaters and owners must be alert to their activities.

II. ENVIRONMENT

Litter Box - ferrets train to a litter box about 90% of the time. The boxes should be high sided (3-4 inches) with a entrance cut-out for easy access, particularly as ferrets get older. Ferrets do not cover their waste, so the poop and damp litter should be clean-out daily and the pan washed and refilled at least monthly. Ferrets are tidy and will not use a litter pan if it's too dirty. Only pelleted or premium 100% dust-free clay litter should be used. Place litter boxes or newspaper in the corners they've selected as "bathrooms" when they're outside the cage playing and use patients when they have accidents (remember, when you're only 1 inch tall there lots of things that look like "corners" !).

Ferrets need to be a integral part of the household. They can not be kept in a basement or garage away from everyone and actually will die if ignored. They need to hear and see their humans, in addition to having several play periods daily. Ferrets adapt to their human's lifestyles and schedules as long as they receive the attention and exercise they need.

III. VACCINATIONS

Canine Distemper - this disease is 100% fatal to ferrets. Immunity should be established with 3 injections of FERVAC-D administered at 8 and 11 and 14 weeks age and thereafter maintained with a yearly booster. Owners have noticed less pain and discomfort if a 25-gauge needle is used.

Pet store ferrets arrive from the breeder with the first of the 3 shots and need the remaining 2 at the appropriate intervals for immunity to be established. Request documentation on the number of shots which have been given because you frequently erroneously will be told that the ferret has all the necessary shots. If documentation isn't provided, then request that the cost of shots be deducted from the price of the ferret.

If the interval between shots is broken, kits less than 14 weeks old will need to have the series started again and all three shots given appropriately. Ferrets older than 14 weeks require 2 shots given two weeks apart to establish immunity. Once immunity is established, then only a yearly booster is necessary. Distemper is a air-borne virus which can be brought into the home on shoes or clothes, so this immunity can not be overlooked .

Rabies - IMRAB-3 is the approved rabies vaccine for ferrets. The first vaccine should be given when the ferret is 3 months old and thereafter yearly. The vaccine is recommended for all ferrets who live in a high risk environment where potential biting may occur. More states now are permitting a quarantine period the same as for dogs following a biting episode, rather than the mandatory euthanizing of the past, so documentation of current rabies inoculation is important.

IV. MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Body Odor - mature, unaltered ferrets produce a oily skin secretion that produces a very strong odor. The odor is under the control of sex hormones, so spaying/neutering largely eliminates the odor.

Also odor is associated with the peri-anal sac, but will not be noticed unless the ferret becomes extremely frightened and sprays. If they spray, the odor lasts only briefly and quickly dissipates (not like a skunk). Professionally bred ferrets arrive "descented" with these peri-anal sacs removed. There is debate whether this surgical procedure is necessary; it is possible to have post-op complications and even have remnants of the sac missed. Owners purchasing a ferret yet to be "descented" may opt to not have the surgery unless their ferret becomes a sprayer.

Finally, ferrets have glands near the ear/neck area and they will occasionally rub from their ears forward down the face in a adorable "face washing" motions to spread their ear scent. Ear cleaning keeps this to a minimum and many owners simply come to enjoy the mild ferret scent of their ears.

Fatal Anemia in Females - when unaltered females go into the heat cycle, they will remain in that cycle until bred or brought out with a hormone injection (one time only). During this heat period, levels of estrogen are very high and have a damaging effect on the bone marrow. Prolonged high levels stop production of clotting factors which lead to internal hemorrhage and death. This irreversible process is preventable by having the female spay before first heat at approximately age 6 months. If the ferret comes into heat prior to surgery, she can be safely operated on if done early .

Heartworms - ferrets are susceptible and IVERMECTIN can be given once a month from April to October without side effects if your ferret is outdoors frequently or exposed to mosquitoes. A heartworm test is not necessary, but a physical exam is recommended prior to starting the medication each spring.

Colds and Flu - ferrets are highly susceptible to human respiratory infections, both bacterial and viral. They develop the same symptoms, i.e., runny nose, watery eyes, sneezing, cough, loss of appetite. Generally there is no need for treatment, just loving care and lots of rest for 5-7 days. However, if your ferret completely loses it's appetite, develops green/yellow eye or nose discharge or becomes depressed/lethargic, then promptly call your vet. Some viral flu infections may require supportive care or a secondary bacterial infection may develop requiring antibiotics. have been known to ingest include latex toys, cotton balls, bones, toweling, foam rubber, insoles. The symptoms of foreign

Foreign Bodies In G.I. Tract - ferrets are prone to eating rubber or plastics, or ingesting other items such as soft plastic, cotton balls, bones, towels, foam rubber. The symptoms of foreign body lodged in the G.I. tract are varied, depending on where in the tract the material is lodge (stomach, upper or lower tract). Some symptoms might be gradual wasting from loss of appetite, extreme lethargy, gagging, vomiting (rare, so something is seriously wrong if a ferret vomits), persistent dark tarry stools or no stools, or emitting painful cries when trying to poop. If you suspect obstruction, promptly take your ferret to your vet. This is a medical emergency!

Gastrointestinal diseases - ferrets may experience some form of inflammatory or infectious bowel problems during their lives. The symptoms are diarrhea, loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting, lethargy. Your ferret will become deathly ill quickly and prompt vet attention is necessary to provide supportive care, fluids and medications. Once damage has been done to the intestinal lining, the ferret may experience occasionally G.I. upsets throughout it's life. Carafate oral solution, a prescription medication with a 1-year shelf life, may be kept on hand to dose for a few days when upsets occur; consult your vet.

Geriatric Diseases - unfortunately the average life span of the ferret is only 6-8 years. Starting at age 3, there is a marked increase in a variety of diseases of which owners need to be aware and recognize symptoms. Cancer, pancreas tumors, and adrenal gland disease are common and each has their own symptoms, prognosis and treatment (see below).

V. SENIOR CITIZENS AND THEIR CARE

Home Care - Older ferrets sleep more, so ensure they have a cozy spot and respect their greater need for rest. Note any sudden unusual change in sleep habits and contact your vet, since this may mean illness. Ferret coats may become brittle and dry. Some diseases contribute to this, but simple aging also leads to dry skin and coat. Don't bath older ferrets as often and use special ferret moisturizer sprays between baths or eliminate baths and use only the sprays. If you notice hair loss or red scales or ulcers on the skin, see your vet. Foot pads may get hard, dry, and develop horny growths. A small amount of Vitamin E oil squeezed out of a capsule or Vaseline rubbed daily on the pads helps keep them soft and removes excessive tissue. Older ferret may become weak in the hind legs, so be sure they can easily get into and out of their cages and litter boxes (create ramps or cut-outs). If you notice sudden a/o unusual weakness or loss of balance, contact your vet promptly.

Changing the ferret diet can be stressful if not done gradually, most particularly for older ferrets. Ferrets usually convert if you combine the old and new foods in the manner below (note that some ferrets adapt to new food quickly, while some take a while adjusting):

+2 weeks = ¼ new food and ¾ old food
+4 weeks = ½ new food and ½ old food
+6 weeks = ¾ new food and ¼ old food
thereafter, all new food

Going without food for too long can cause onset of severe weakness or seizures in older ferrets, so monitor any transition to new food to ensure that the ferret is eating. Remember dry foods only.

Vet Care - all ferrets should be seen yearly for a physical and their annual booster(s); however, it is even more important for ferrets to be seen yearly starting at age 3 because geriatric checkups are invaluable in detecting early diseases. If there is any indication, baseline blood work can be done then to monitor for diseases (fasting blood work requires that a ferret be without food and water for 4-hours prior to the blood being drawn; a ferret should never fast for longer than 4-5 hours, regardless if for blood work or surgery, since the fasting alone can create serious health problems; be aware that not all vets know this).

Unfortunately, older ferrets seem to become little tumor factories, with at least 50% developing some form of cancer. The only weapon is early detection through owner attention and vet checkups.

ADRENAL GLAND DISEASE is the most common tumor disease seen in ferrets and commonly occurs along with insulinoma, pancreatic tumor disease. Adrenal glands, located atop the kidneys, produce hormones which control several metabolic functions. Tumors develop in only the left adrenal in the majority of cases, but also can develop in the right or in both. Signs, related to overproduction of corticosteroids and estrogen, include hair loss in a symmetrical pattern over the hips and up the back, thinning body musculature, lethargy, sometimes increased drinking and urinating (thought this is hard to distinguish in ferrets). The hair loss may be intermittent with periods of re-growth. The skin may become itchy and develop red patches, scaling, and flaking. Fat accumulates in the abdomen and gives a "pot-bellied" look. Females develop swollen vulva, even the spayed females. Diagnosis is based on symptoms, though a blood test now is available through the Department of Endocrinology, University of Tennessee College of Vet Medicine (615-974-5638). Treatment of choice is to remove the affected gland. However, if the disease is advanced enough that both adrenals are involved, or the ferret is not a good surgical candidate due to age or other illness, a drug called Lysodren may be effective (providing insulinoma also is not present). Lysodren chemically destroys adrenal tissue until more normal hormone levels are reached and symptoms regress. Even if the owner decides on no treatment, the disease is slow and ferrets may live 6 months to 2 years bald but happy.

INSULINOMA in seen in 30% of ferrets over age 3. It is tumors of the pancreas which cause abnormally high levels of insulin. This increase drives sugar out of the blood stream and into cells too rapidly, causing a serious drop in blood sugar levels, which then starves the brain and causes erratic behavior. As the disease progresses, the body is less able to cope and the symptoms become more and more severe. Early signs are no more noticeable than seeing the ferret stare blankly for a few seconds ("star gazing"). The ferret may be a little more difficult to awaken and later signs become more specific, including drooling or salivating for no apparent reason, pawing at the mouth (all caused by nausea as the blood sugar level drops), comatose behavior, seizures and finally death. Diagnosis is based on fasting blood sugar levels and treatment depends on the stage of the disease. Early, surgery is a choice; tumors are removed and/or a partial pancreatectomy is performed. This procedure gives the ferret additional time before medication needs to be started. If the disease is advanced, or other disease also is present, then medical therapy is recommended. Animals survive 6 months to 2 years with medical therapy. Medical therapy involves daily medicine for the rest of the ferret's life and adding more protein to the diet to control symptoms. Sugar treats must be avoided because they create rebound effect by bringing up the blood sugar levels too rapid and they then drop rapidly. Proteins are better because they take longer to metabolize and last longer in the body as a food source. If you notice symptoms, especially seizure, bring your ferret out of it by administering honey or karo syrup on the gums until the pet is more alert and stopped seizing. As soon as he can swallow, administer some of his normal food as "mush" mixed with water or Gerber's baby food chicken flavored and contact your vet immediately. Insulinoma is not curable, but the ferret can remain reasonably healthy and comfortable for the remaining time. It is a disease which requires particular vigilance by the owner, both because the medication can not be missed and symptoms must be promptly treated.

LYMPHOSARCOMA is not restricted to older ferrets, but also may occur in younger ferrets, for whom it is rapidly fatal. The disease hides in older ferrets without notice and then suddenly appears. It is cancer of the lymphatic system, part of the immune system and the cause is unknown. Signs vary, with many pets having no outward signs for long periods. It may be detected by abnormal blood work. Some changes seen are swollen lymph nodes, enlarged spleen (though ferrets have enlarged spleens for no reason throughout their lives), wasting, lethargy, poor appetite, difficulty breathing (research suggests a relationship between this and frequent upper respiratory infections), chronic diarrhea, or hind leg weakness. Diagnosis is from a combination of blood work and biopsy of lymph nodes. X-ray or MRI are of limited value. Treatment is through a chemotherapy protocol, which is well tolerated and has a 75% success rate in prolonging life 6 months to 3 years. Even ferrets who are not candidates for chemo can be helped to continue a quality life with use of steroids.

SKIN TUMORS seen in older ferrets should be removed because they are irritating and may become malignant. The most common skin tumor is the "mast cell", which appears as a round, raised, button-like lump and is usually itchy. There may be a bloody crust on the top due to scratching (these tumors produce a histamine which irritates, itches, and leads to hair loss). The other most common skin tumor is the sebaceous gland adenoma or adenocarcinoma. These have the appearance of a irregular wart-like growth and bleed easily (like human melanoma). The tumor may be malignant, so it is best to have it removed early.

Thus, it can be seen why it is important for an owner to be familiar with the diseases of ferrets and with their own ferret, both behaviorally and physically. If an owner is alert to symptoms and gets treatment, there is greater chance of longer survival with good quality life and the opportunity to provide a painless, humane death when the time is necessary.

RECOMMENDED FERRET VACCINATION SCHEDULE from the (American Ferret Association, Inc.)

Note that owners have noticed little or no discomfort when 25-gauge needles are used for all injections.

CANINE DISTEMPER VIRUS (consult product label):

AFA recommends vaccinating ferrets only with U.S.D.A. FERVAC-D licensed vaccine. Ferrets are highly susceptible to canine distemper virus (CDV) and the disease if 100% fatal in non-immunized ferrets.
KITS 6-14 WEEKS AGE with no, unknown or outdated vaccination history should receive three 1ml sq inoculations: first at 8 weeks, second at 11 weeks, and third at 14 weeks, and then annually on the anniversary of the last shot. Note that in some CDV outbreaks, ferrets receiving only 2 initial boosters succumbed to the disease.
FERRETS OVER 14 WEEKS AGE with no, unknown, or outdated vaccination history should receive two 1ml sq inoculations, given 2 weeks apart, and then annually on the anniversary of the last shot.

RABIES VIRUS (consult product label):

AFA recommends vaccinating ferrets only with U.S.D.A. IMRAB-3 licensed vaccine.
1 ml sq in healthy ferrets at 3 MONTHS AGE and then annually on anniversary of shot.

BRINGING HOME A NEW FERRET (created by F.A.C.T.)

It is important to let your new ferret become adjusted, with minimal stress, to it's new humans and environment:

Let the ferret become use to your home one room at a time, starting with the room in which it will be kept. This is better than letting it become overwhelmed with a big house all at once. Also it allows you to monitor the "ferret proofing" to see where else preventative measures may need to be done. Each day or so expand the areas of activity until the ferret is aware of all the it's new surroundings. Put litter boxes or newspaper in the corners the ferret has selected for his toilet area throughout the house.
Spend time sitting on the floor with your ferret; if you are on it's level it is a lot less intimidating for the ferret. Allow it to come to you, mostly, which it will do more and more as it becomes familiar with new surroundings (ferrets have to satisfy their endless curiosity first). When you pick-up the ferret, be sure the ferret sees your hands and be sure to use both hands gently (don't grab!), while speaking softly to the ferret (vision is their poorest sense and they easily startle; also deafness is not uncommon in some ferrets with white blazes on their heads, so they must see you). A lot of hands-on at floor level is a good start for bonding. Pet, pat, play, and even cup your hand around it's body when sleeping to get use to your hands. A lot of playing is good, but let the ferret dictate the level of activity (don't force it to play if it'd rather be snooping or sleeping). Bonding is slower than with a puppy or kitten, it may be several weeks before the ferret emotionally and physically attaches itself to you, so simply be patient and gentle … it will happen!
Do not abruptly change the new ferret's diet, even if it's on junk food. This needs to be done gradually to minimize stress. Make new food available in a second dish while also mixing new and old food (follow mixing directions given earlier in this document). If the ferret immediately takes to the new food and ignores the old, then simply toss out the old food.
Bear in mind that while the ferret is in this adjustment period that REST is important, particularly with a kit. Be sure to put them up for naps after 1 ½ hours play so that they don't get too exhausted.
Basically use common sense with lots of attention, patience, and love

BRINGING HOME AN ADDITIONAL FERRET (created by F.A.C.T.)

It is important to let the new ferret become adjusted, with minimal stress, to it's new environment, new companion ferret(s), and new humans:

the new ferret should have it's own cage for an undetermined period of time. It is important that the new ferret have a place of it's own (with it's "stuff" inside) where it can sleep restfully without being bothered by the other ferret(s). Place the new ferret's cage beside the other ferret's cage where they can see each other, but not yet have access during sleep/rest times.
for approximately 1 week play separately with the new ferret and the others, but do not yet allow them to play together. This allows a bonding period for you and the new ferret, while allowing all the ferrets to see you handling each and smelling each on you. When the time comes to allow them to play together, still play first with each separately so that the initial burst of energy outside the cage can be dissipated before they play together. This will minimize the rough play while they're establishing "alpha" ferret. Use common sense in the frequency and duration of these interactive play periods.
Always supervise the play periods until the time arrives when the ferrets have accepted each other !!!
Do not allow play to become too rough … no grabbing by the neck and shaking, no grabbing by the neck and dragging, no bristled tails. If play becomes too rough, scruff the ferrets up to your eye-level and tell them "No". If rough play persists, scruff the ferrets and tell them "No" and put them back in their respective cages for a time-out. If one ferret has another in it's mouth, do not pull them apart, but rather scruff both up to eye-level while saying "No" until they are apart.
Generally the ferrets sooner or later work out the pecking order and will become pals. This happens quickly sometimes and not so quickly others, just be patient. Slowly or quickly you'll notice them snooping each others cages (always leave the cage doors open while all are out) and getting distracted from beating up on each other by playing or toys. Then finally you'll discover them curled up together sleeping. When they select a cage into which they all will sleep, it is then okay to remove the second cage if you want (or simply leave it), but they no longer will need separate cages. They will dictate when they're ready for this.
While the new ferret is becoming acquainted with it's new humans and other ferret(s), it is best to minimize further stress by slowly introducing him alone to one room of the house at a time, rather than overwhelming him with a big house all at once. Each day, during your play time with him, introduce him to a new room or area.
Basically, simply use common sense with lots of patience, attention, and love